It’s an organ statistics show 95% of people experience health issues with at some point in their lives. If it is in poor condition, 60% of respondents say it directly affects their self-confidence, how others perceive them, as well as their personal lives and success at work. Yet, we often fail to recognise it as a separate organ at all, seeing it as mere packaging for the body. Of course, we are talking about the skin. It is the largest organ of our body, just as vital as the liver, kidneys, or spleen.
How does skincare in Britain differ from what people from post-Soviet countries are accustomed to? What can modern dermatological science offer today? Why is the personalised approach to dermatology so effective and how can the bewildering abundance of cosmetic products with competing claims be navigated to achieve results? Kommersant UK spoke with the mother and daughter duo Libi Hershkovich and Inna Szalontay, dermatology experts from a long line of doctors and the founders of the Libi & Daughters clinic.
Profile
Libi (known as Lyubov Andreevna to Russian-speaking patients) is a Doctor of Medical Science and member of the International Academy of Sciences. She is an endocrinologist, dermatologist, venereologist, cosmetologist, therapist and specialist in invasive techniques with 37 years experience of work at leading medical institutions in Georgia and Russia. She holds advanced medical qualifications from centres in Russia, France, Germany, the United States and Italy. For over 20 years, she headed Rosh, a medical clinic in Moscow.
Dr Inna, who attended Moscow State University of Medicine and Dentistry and the Russian Medical Academy, is a dermatologist, venereologist, cosmetologist and laser therapist with 17 years of clinical experience. She holds advanced medical qualifications from centres in Russia, France, Germany and Italy. Her areas of expertise include treating adolescent skin affected by hormonal imbalances, skin complaints during pregnancy and the menopause, as well as correcting skin imperfections.
The Libi & Daughters clinic piqued our journalist's curiosity: not much information is available online and both the website and Instagram showcase stylish promotional images but few specifics. Hidden behind a discreet sign in London’s prestigious Fitzrovia district, the clinic’s pricing reflects its position in the premium segment.
Drs Inna and Libi have schedules packed with consultations, procedures and conferences. This made the time they set aside for the interview all the more valuable. We could have talked endlessly, as skincare is an important issue for women of all ages and it was a great pleasure to speak with experts of this calibre, especially since the approach to dermatology in the UK contrasts so starkly from what those of us from post-Soviet countries are used to and regrettably, not in a good way.
You recently moved to Britain. What are the main differences in approaches to skin care between post-Soviet countries and the UK?
Inna: The standards are very different and the system itself is structured differently. Back home, for complex cases, we had specialised dermatology clinics; you may remember the term ‘dermatovenerological dispensaries’. There were also dermatologists in general clinics and cosmetic treatment rooms for masks and skincare, all staffed by medical professionals. In Britain, there’s no middle tier. It’s extremely difficult to get an appointment with a dermatologist and they only see patients with serious issues. GPs often don’t pay enough attention to skin problems and even getting basic tests can be a challenge. Local beauty salons don’t offer medical standards of care and I always get frustrated when I talk about their practices, which often lack proper hygiene. For example, it’s considered normal for their specialists to start a facial cleansing or massage even when there is inflammation and discharge. The fact that this can spread infections doesn’t concern them, they’re not doctors, after all. A medical approach, on the other hand, is to treat the problem with medication rather than covering it up with layers of cosmetics. Supermarket products may suppress or mask an issue, but they won’t cure it.
Today, consumers are bombarded with advertisements and can buy countless skincare products and gadgets for home use. Thanks to ‘Dr Google’ or Chat GPT, everyone seems to think they’re a dermatologist...
Inna: You wouldn’t believe the consequences we see from unprofessional treatments and advice from friends, not to mention recommendations from the internet! Modern society has lost its respect for the skin. But it’s an incredible organ that separates us from the outside world and protects us. It’s the organ that allows us to feel our newborn child or the tenderness of a loved one. Sensitivity and sensuality both begin with the skin. Interestingly, during prenatal development, the skin and nervous tissue form from the same cell, which further proves that skin health is closely connected to emotional and psychological well-being. Unfortunately, the concept of what’s considered ‘normal’ has shifted. In the past, having healthy skin without any pathologies was the norm. Today, if you can cover up an issue, that’s considered a successful result.
Libi: We should treat our skin with great reverence. You can’t just apply anything to it; it needs to absorb what’s beneficial and eliminate what’s unnecessary. When the skin struggles to eliminate toxins and becomes clogged, its immunity weakens, which can lead to inflammation, eczema and atopic reactions. People often don’t even realise that poor-quality cosmetics are the cause. That’s why our motto is a strictly personalised approach; everything must be tailored to the individual. This applies to both therapeutic treatments and skincare products. What’s more, the products we use are as natural as possible.
In an age when new substances are specifically synthesised to enhance the effectiveness of medicines and cosmetics, this emphasis on natural ingredients sounds rather unusual.
Libi: Unfortunately, modern cosmetology is all about chemistry. We, on the other hand, are firm advocates of natural skincare, using natural ingredients that have proven their effectiveness over centuries. These aren’t just empty words, either; our family tradition dates back to the late 18th century. Our great-great-great-great-grandmothers created their own skincare products using natural ingredients and passed down the art of skincare to their daughters. For example, one of them, Bertha, developed a cleansing lotion called ‘Porcelain Water’ in the early 19th century, while another, Libi Haitin, created an ointment to treat burns for soldiers during World War I. These secret formulas were carefully preserved in our family archives and we still incorporate them into our recipes today.
Inna: I was born when my mother was studying at medical school and I even remember crawling over anatomy textbooks while she was studying. I can still recall the scents that filled our kitchen when my grandmother, Rivekka, prepared creams; she had a licence from the pharmacy’s production department. So, a passion for pharmacology runs in our blood. Interestingly, it has only ever been passed down through the women of our family. All the women in our lineage were educated, worked and were independent of their husbands. We’ve inherited some very progressive genes!
Where do you source the ingredients for those old recipes today?
Inna: We use natural ingredients that have proven effective, but if science discovers more efficient components, we adapt. For example, animal fats are among the most skin-compatible ingredients, providing deep nourishment and strengthening the skin’s protective barrier. Lanolin, derived from sheep’s wool, has long been valued for its ability to retain moisture and prevent water loss and it’s now scientifically proven to reduce transepidermal water loss for extended periods. Zinc soothes irritation and promotes healing. These ingredients were part of our ancestors’ formulas and remain some of the best skin-friendly components available today. Of course, we also incorporate cutting-edge ingredients that didn’t exist decades ago, such as peptides and epidermal growth factors. Ultimately, our approach is to offer the best combination of natural and effective solutions.
You don’t just have your own approach, it’s a whole unique concept. Could you tell us more about it?
Inna: Our concept is underpinned by medical principles. A doctor should identify the root cause of the issue rather than simply treating a single pimple. During the initial consultation, I thoroughly examine the patient, not only their face but also their hair, nails, back and even the soles of their feet. If necessary, we refer them for lab tests and can advise on where to get them done quickly. Then I create custom prescriptions individually tailored to the patient. This applies not only to people with skin problems but also to those seeking proper skincare or anti-ageing treatments. Every ingredient in our preparations serves a purpose, none are unnecessary and it’s not just one product but a whole system, working together to achieve the desired result. It’s like a symphony; if you remove the violin, the sound changes.
These prescriptions are then sent to our medical laboratory. We have our own state-of-the-art lab in Budapest, led by a highly qualified pharmacologist. There, each product is handcrafted; ingredients are ground and mixed by hand because we’ve found that machines cause the creams to curdle. For instance, we prepare tinctures from fresh herbs for vascular issues. The finished products are delivered directly to the patient’s home.
Patients also receive medical support throughout treatment; I monitor their progress and assess how their skin responds. Any new skincare product is a form of stress for the skin, so this support is needed, especially during the first month. At the next stage, the preparations are adjusted because the skin has changed, so we modify the dosages or ingredients accordingly. In other words, the patient receives both customised products and continuous medical guidance. That’s our unique approach, you won’t find it anywhere else.
So is your approach haute couture for skincare?
Inna: Exactly. Imagine walking into a Christian Dior boutique and buying a stylish suit off the rack, or going to Dior, where the head designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri, takes your measurements and creates a suit tailored specifically to your shape. Just think how perfectly that suit would fit! The difference is that a suit lasts for a year or two, maybe three, but beautiful skin lasts much longer. Yes, it’s expensive and not for everyone, but it guarantees results.
How much does a personalised Libi & Daughters skincare set cost?
Inna: A box tailored to your skin’s needs costs £1,000 and typically contains around twelve products. We were quite anxious when we first calculated that price. But our patients say they’ve stopped buying hundreds of different products because these specially-prepared products work and they meet their specific needs. One box lasts two to three months, so, in the long run, their skincare routines actually cost less as they no longer have to keep up with every new product launch or wonder what to try next.
Who are your patients?
Libi: Our patients are thoughtful individuals who understand the importance of investing in themselves, their appearances and their confidence. Over the years, we've heard countless stories about how our treatments have changed lives for the better. Some of our patients, for example, stopped arranging dates in dimly-lit restaurants that would hide their skin problems. Others found their soulmates or, after gaining confidence, advanced in their careers. We also have patients who say: “You are our last hope; we've tried everything else and nothing’s worked.” These people come to us through recommendations from friends and family and they bring their children as well. Some were treated by my mother, then by me and now they come to Inna.
Our first clinic operated without even a sign for a long time as we simply forgot to put one up at first. Yet people still came because the word had spread and that’s invaluable because if you don’t deliver results, a patient won’t return or recommend you to others.
Inna: When we moved to London five years ago, word about us somehow got out through acquaintances and their children. Teenagers with acne began coming to my home and since they’re often emotionally vulnerable, I couldn’t refuse to help. They brought their friends and those friends brought more friends; it snowballed from there. A year ago, we opened our clinic and from day one, we’ve never been short of patients.
What else sets you apart from local specialists?
Inna: Here in the UK, doctors often present patients with options: “You could do this, or you could do that”. When it comes to aesthetic procedures, such as removing a wrinkle or pigmentation, for example, we naturally offer our expert advice and let the patient make the final decision. But when it comes to medical treatment, our stance is that if you've come to a doctor, you should trust them. In these cases, we don’t present different options or discuss what to do, we prescribe the treatment. Our patients sign an agreement stating they will follow our recommendations to achieve the desired results.
In your experience, can all skin problems be treated?
Libi: If it's not a genetic pathology, then with the right approach and properly selected products, most conditions can either be cured or brought into long-term remission. But it’s crucial to see a doctor before resorting to strong medications or hormones that can damage the organ. In the UK, both eczema and acne are often treated with hormones or antibiotics, which can disrupt many processes in the body.
So, you don’t just specialise in complex skin issues at Libi & Daughters?
Libi: Of course not. We also offer programmes for healthy skin, focusing on skincare, aesthetics and slowing down the signs of ageing. From experience, we know it’s better to take care of your skin while it’s in good condition and find the right products, as it’s easier to prevent wrinkles than to eliminate them. We also offer medical apparatus and invasive procedures. But we don’t aim to have every device on the market; we’re very selective about what we offer our patients. We’re against Botox, for example; we don’t use it and we often dissuade clients from using it. We believe there are alternative methods, like acupuncture. We don’t use stitches either. Out of the thousands of cosmetic fillers available, we only use the one we consider safest. Our services also include laser therapy and mesotherapy. With every device, we apply our personalised approach, medical expertise and skilled hands.
Which cases interest you more: dermal pathologies or skin care procedures?
Inna: Working on solely cosmetic issues is enjoyable and it’s an important and responsible part of our work, but it’s especially rewarding to help with complex clinical cases. When you see the results, you feel just as happy as the patients themselves.
Despite your focus on personalised care, you’ve probably noticed that most people make common skincare mistakes. Could you share a general tip?
Inna: You might be surprised, but proper cleansing is crucial, especially for young men, whose faces, at best, only come into contact with soap in the shower. I don’t recommend using foams or cleansing lotions, most modern cosmetics contain a lot of chemicals that dry out the skin and dissolve its beneficial oils. It’s better to wash your face with a simple soap, ideally using softened water. Alternating between hot and cold water is highly beneficial, as it stimulates blood circulation and improves skin elasticity. After washing, gently pat your face dry with a clean towel, ideally a disposable paper one. Then apply a cream that suits your skin type and, of course, always use products appropriate for your age and never use someone else’s creams.
Address: Libi & Daughters, 1st Floor, 10–11 Percy Street, London W1T 1DN
Website: libi.com
Instagram: @libianddaughters
